|
|
Post by piggypal on Dec 23, 2012 14:29:24 GMT
The momma's infection looks better.
She almost seems to have some hair regrowing in the very bottom corner under her ear?
My vet was saying it's probably ringworm with it going around the eye and ear..and that ringworm takes a while to treat.
It also seems to be a little crusty on her other ear this morning, so I put some ointment there too.
|
|
|
|
Post by piggypal on Dec 23, 2012 19:10:20 GMT
Can the babies get a bath or a butt bath or something?  |
|
|
|
Post by cordane on Dec 23, 2012 19:52:46 GMT
I don't see why not. I give my guineas baths as soon as they get here. Just make sure the water is luke warm dry them off properly after the bath - I actually use a hairdryer on the first setting to do this after towel drying them.
|
|
|
|
Post by Kayleigh on Dec 23, 2012 21:51:42 GMT
Id suggest using a baby wipe or something to wipe them down. A bath might freak them out a little too much just now.
If you do bathe them, dunk their bottoms in warm water and ensure you dry them 100%
How are they all doing?
|
|
|
|
Post by piggypal on Dec 26, 2012 15:09:21 GMT
Babies got their butt baths. They are white again and they live to tell about it.  Weights this morning: Female #1 (smaller) - 164g Female #2 - 201g Mom- A little confused..yesterday she weight the normal around 650grams and today the scale read 605 grams. I will weigh again tomorrow. I think my scale is correct..it's working for babies but that's a big drop for momma..? Also, here's how mommas ear is doing. LOTS of regrowth already. Before:  Now:  And if we could do another sex check .. I have better pictures? (I guess lol) What is the little dots of white on them? I still think they're both females..but the 1st one (the smaller baby) has me a little confused. I can to get them in better light, but here's what I have.. Baby #1 (Smaller)   Baby #2   |
|
|
|
Post by Kayleigh on Dec 26, 2012 15:49:33 GMT
The mums face is looking wonderful!!!
As for the sexes of the pups at quick glance the first pic looks like a boar.....but then the second one which im assuming is the same pig just upside down..looks like a sow!!
The second pig is definately a sow though.
If you apply pressure just above the gentital opening, a penis will be exposed if the top pig is a boar.
Not sure what the little white dots are, could be excess calcuim being excreted out in the urine.
Ill see if i can get a snap of my 16 day old rex boar to show you how a boar "should" look.
Kayleigh
|
|
|
|
Post by piggypal on Dec 26, 2012 16:32:46 GMT
I just took more photos of the question baby in good light and tried to push above to see what happened.. I swear this pig is sex changing every time I look..just to mess with us. LOL Holding him in the air,   Holding him a little tilted back on his back  On his back trying to apply a bit of pressure   |
|
|
|
Post by Kayleigh on Dec 26, 2012 16:47:18 GMT
Defo a girly pig! Just with a very prominant vulva it looks!!
Pigs can be so confusing and pictures very diseaving!!!
|
|
|
|
Post by piggypal on Dec 26, 2012 17:02:20 GMT
Good.  So the babies can go home as a pair. Or should I wait until Mommas infection is gone and see if they can be adopted out all together? (just make sure they have proper housing) As momma would then be alone if not.. She's a super sweet piggy..probably the sweetest I've handled. Shell make a good one on one pet, but I know they like friends. Assuming the babies will be 3 weeks next Tuesday..what is the safe age to bring them back in for adoption? I believe one of the males at the shelter has a URI ( was sneezing fluids) and I'd like to see about getting that pair here to treat the fungal too if they haven't been treated yet.. But I can't do that until I move the little ones out. |
|
|
|
Post by Kayleigh on Dec 26, 2012 17:09:27 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by piggypal on Dec 30, 2012 15:02:50 GMT
Have a bit of an emergency with one of the babies (baby #1 - smaller female)
She gives me a bit of problem with her nipping when I hold her, and I noticed her and her sister chasing each other this morning.
I also saw blood on her fur and she has an open wound on her neck.
What should I do?
Do I separate babies now?
Fix this here? I will have to tell the shelter but they're closed today and can go in tomorrow.
Thoughts?
|
|
|
|
Post by piggypal on Dec 30, 2012 15:25:41 GMT
Here's the damage:    I had to wet her down to get a better look around her neck. Two (what look like) bite marks. One on the back of her neck and one on the side of her neck) Nothing on the second baby. This baby also seems to have the ringworm.  I've put neosporin (antibiotic ointment) on her bites (they don't look bad. Look like the skin was just grazed a bit) and put the clotrimazole ointment on her ringworm. |
|
|
|
Post by Kayleigh on Dec 30, 2012 16:14:38 GMT
Are you certain they are bite marks and not her scratching?
If they are bite marks them remove the aggressor.
Its a first iv heard of young sow siblings doing this. Have you observed the attacks? How old are they now? Id strongly suggest getting hold of some imaverol to dip them all.
Clean all cages etc and keep bedding to a minimum, no hideys or snuggles etc. Use trigene or virkon if you can get it.
Is the other pup free from wounds etc?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using proboards
|
|
|
|
Post by piggypal on Dec 30, 2012 16:26:33 GMT
They looked like they were chasing each other this morning, but they don't seem to be doing anything right now and are getting along.
The pup does scratch, but I think it's because I put the ointment on. The one on her neck looks similar to a bite wound I had on a chinchilla once.
If I remove the older sister who I assume bit her (I don't see how this could be scratch marks, but if that is a possibility due to the obvious ringworm??)
should I see if she can go back to the shelter for adoption as she will be away from mom? Or put her in a different cage and see if ringworm pops up on her..
I have Nizoral shampoo,but my vet was saying it may be good to bring them in and have them dip them, or do it at home.
I will be staying near the cage today to observe their behavior.. to see what is really going on.
Baby #2 (older sister) has nothing on her.
I do clean the cage and everything in it at least every other day. I just cleaned the cage last night.
|
|
|
|
Post by piggypal on Dec 30, 2012 16:28:25 GMT
And they're probably around 3 weeks now (yesterday marked 3 weeks)....give or take a few days since I can only guess they were a few days old when they came to the shelter. They were out of food when I went in to check on the, this morning. Maybe they got in a little tuff because of that? If these are bite marks? Weights: Baby #1 (lil messy one right now) - 201g (wow! just hit 200. ) Baby #2 (older sister) - 235g |
|
|
|
Post by piggypal on Dec 30, 2012 16:34:55 GMT
 No hideys, bedding changed often. |
|
|
|
Post by Kayleigh on Dec 30, 2012 16:46:00 GMT
The cage looks lovely. The ringworm can cause pigs to scratch nip at themselves as its itchy and the area is common with that hence why i asked if your sure its bite.
They can be seperated if they are fighting but they cant be adopted out until 6 weeks id say. Id also suggest treating everyone for ringworm. It can take a few weeks to crop up. Dipping at home or vets, whatever you feel is best. Vets will be dearer though.
The solution needs to be left on for best results too. And remember to dip their entire body. (Not the nicest thing) but better than ringworm.
They are fab weights too well done!! Just need to get the fungal undercontrol and sorted.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using proboards
|
|
|
|
Post by piggypal on Dec 30, 2012 16:52:19 GMT
Ok then. Vet is closed today, but I'll look around..and if I can find the dip nearby I'll go pick some up today. If not I'll call the vet tomorrow. I've never had to deal with a dip, so when you say left on.....for how long? won't they get cold? I did put some ointment on the 2nd female just in case. |
|
|
|
Post by piggypal on Dec 30, 2012 16:58:41 GMT
So here (in the US) apparently the dip for ringworm is called a lime sulfur (lime) dip. I was wondering why the vet said 'lime dip' them, yet they dip you mentioned is only sold overseas. I THINK I can get lime dip locally. ha. |
|
|
|
Post by Kayleigh on Dec 30, 2012 17:45:12 GMT
Im unsure what its called overseas, im on holiday at the moment so dont have pc access and my phones playing up...typical.
Iv always been told to leave the imaverol on to dry in as its far more effective. The pigs need to be in a warm room on towels or something. They shouldnt be soaked either, so rub them off lightly.
Im sure if you google imaverol to see the active ingredients then compare them to the lime dip aslong as they are the same or very similar it should work. They will probably need dipped two or three times about 2 weeks apart. Fungal is a nuisence but the spores can linger for weeks the crop up. Ensure you wear gloves or are very strict with hygiene as you dont want ringworm aswell.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using proboards
|
|
|
|
Post by piggypal on Jan 4, 2013 23:41:04 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by Kayleigh on Jan 5, 2013 11:45:29 GMT
Fingers crossed the bath helps a little. Fungal is one of those things that hangs around and can be a pain to clear. They are all looking much better aside from the fungal.
Let us know what the vet says
Sent from my GT-I9300 using proboards
|
|
|
|
Post by piggypal on Jan 13, 2013 1:06:49 GMT
Back with an update. (:
The pigs went to the vet yesterday. He scraped the baby to check for mites and said he would rule them out as he didn't see anything. Since the baby is the worst, he prescribed Griseofulvin (an oral antifungal humans would use, but we can use it for them)
So baby runt is getting .3cc a day and the mom and other baby (who still shows no sign of the infection) are still getting the cream.
They should be 4.5weeks now.
|
|
|
|
Post by piggypal on Jan 13, 2013 1:07:56 GMT
He also gave me Oxbow Vitamin C tablets so the pigs are getting the correct amount of Vit.C in their diets. Babies get 25mg and adults 50mg.
|
|
|
|
Post by Kayleigh on Jan 13, 2013 10:24:54 GMT
Im glad they seem to be on the mend, it can take its time especially with fungal.
As for the vit c tablets, whilst they are unwell the boost will do them good. I personally dont give vit c supplements to my pigs as they get all they need (and more) from their daily food. I do give boosts to unwell pigs, but usually in the form of Ribena on their cages.
Im pleased to hear they are improving!
|
|
|
|
Post by piggypal on Jan 18, 2013 1:18:50 GMT
Babies are doing well on the oral meds. Little girls hair looks like it's starting to grow back behind her neck. Still need to give it time. Also, I need to collect information on pigs.. if you don't mind chiming in on the next few topics? I have gotten so used to handling and caring for them that I'm a little boggled trying to write it all down. 1) Handling/how to hold/where not to hold/how to approach. (Where can guinea pigs see/blind spots/ where should you not put your hands and where you should) 2) Behavior/body language. What is submissive behavior and what would they do to show they are stressed/agitated. (Do they make certain noises, show their body a certain way, etc) I am doing more research, but figured I'd ask here in case you had any tips or advice. |
|
|
|
Post by Kayleigh on Jan 18, 2013 20:41:41 GMT
Babies are doing well on the oral meds. Little girls hair looks like it's starting to grow back behind her neck. Still need to give it time. Also, I need to collect information on pigs.. if you don't mind chiming in on the next few topics? I have gotten so used to handling and caring for them that I'm a little boggled trying to write it all down. 1) Handling/how to hold/where not to hold/how to approach. (Where can guinea pigs see/blind spots/ where should you not put your hands and where you should) Handle little and often, when they are younger they like to run about and dont really want to sit still for long. Ensure you support their bottoms at all times, its usually best to hold them against your chest if your unsure if you can keep a grip. Pigs generally freak out if you go at them from the top, so i always try to pick mine up from the side as to not freak them out. Aslong as the pig is supported thats good, Never dangle the pig or hold them mid air either, iv seen a few people do this. 2) Behavior/body language. What is submissive behavior and what would they do to show they are stressed/agitated. (Do they make certain noises, show their body a certain way, etc) Submissive pigs generally keep their heads low and will walk away from a dominant pig. Light brring is usually heard. A stressed pig usually sits nervous, in a corner, wont interact, can sometimes hunch up. I am doing more research, but figured I'd ask here in case you had any tips or advice. A majority of cavy care is common sense, its usually the health issues that are a concern, aswell as sexing etc. Talking to pigs is a huge confidence thing for them, along side removing hideys etc. |
|
